Special Notice To Readers of Pike's Picks:
Unless you've been living under a rock, you all should know that New Orleans
was seriously damaged by two hurricanes Fall 2005.
Many of our favorite places were very badly flooded and the city was
generally a
mess. Some places no longer exist, Brunnings and Sidmars for example, were
both washed away
totally. A lot of places were slow to come back, but now, there are more places to eat than pre-Katrina and lots to do so come on down.
FIRST:
I recommend you get a good, detailed map of the city. AAA maps are good,
also the maps sold at the drug store for $3.50 are a good investment.
Not all streets are listed, many smaller streets are missing. The
city of New Orleans is very confusing. Forget North, East, South, and
West and learn to refer to places in terms of Uptown, Downtown, Lake,
and
River . The numbering system is equally confusing, and numbers from
two
parallel streets may not match. Expect to get lost, but that's part of
the charm of the city. My favorite set of directions to a place was
given with the admonition, "Easy to get, hard to find", this will be true
of any number of places in this guide. A good place to find out what is
going on is a weekly newspaper called Gambit, its free and
can
be gotten all over town. Another source is
Offbeat,
also free and which specializes in music and entertainment in New Orleans
and Louisiana.
Here are some of our favorite places and others that have been recommended over the years. Reservations at many of the restaurants are nonexistent. It is advisable especially on weekends to call first to see how crowded the place is. During Mardi Gras, almost everything is. Be aware that Mardi Gras is actually the worst time to visit any eating establishment in NOLA. Staff are over worked, food is flying out of the kitchen, and every one is stressed. Having said that, there are few places in the world that have as many great places to eat at then New Orleans. New places open all the time, and some close, so this list is by no means the ultimate guide.
La Peniche: 1940 Dauphine St. 943 1460. Open 24 hours a day, serves an extensive menu and a great place for breakfast or that late night snack, a very local clientele, reasonably priced. I like the omelets. (Stan)
Elizabeth's Restaurant: at the corner of Chartre and Gallier st., if you get lost call 504 944 9272. A new place for us, during the week, only open for lunch and dinner, on weekends for brunch. Its a little way from the French Quarter along the Mississippi river in the Bywater section, but its worth the drive. One of the highlights for brunch is the Praline Bacon and the Eggs Elizabether are awsome. (Stan, Kate, Eldon)
Mothers: Poydras St. Another place for breakfast and lunch. It may seem like cafeteria style, but most food is cooked to order. If your an ex-Marine, this is the place for you. Lately, a lot of tourists can be found here and the line to get in can be long (not worth the wait), and its almost on the "Famous But Overrated" list. (Stan)
The Bluebird Cafe: 3625 Prytania, 895 7166. Near Touro Hospital, very popular local breakfast & lunch spot. This is one of my favorite breakfast places, if I can get in. Line for a table forms outside the front door, get here before 9:00am to avoid a wait. Not open for dinner. Cash only, no charges, usually long lines. (Stan, Pike, Arthur N. & Caroline)
Slim Goodies: 3332 Magazine Street, a new addition to the list, a great diner spot for breakfast. Rosemary liked the waffels, but I thought them too thick for my liking. The Omelets were excellent. Check it out. (Marie, Stan)
Camllia Grill: 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 504 866 9573, Talk about a place that had its ups and downs, one of the great eating instutions in New Orleans, it was taken over by new management in 2004 and run into the ground, poor service, bad food, it actually made it onto the "Famous but Overrated" section. Katrina closed the place and it looked like the end. It reopened in 2007 under new management who vowed to reclaim its past glory and its on its way to doing just that. Marvin is back and the food and service staff is working hard to improve. I like breakfast there and in particular the pecan waffles, but its also well known for supper fluffy omelets and late night burgers. Now as cheap as you might think however. (Stan)
Cake Cafe & Bakery: 2440 Chartres, in the Bywater neighborhood. Not only great baked goods, but a terrific breakfast, omelets and egg sandwiches and of course coffee. Closed Monday. (Kate and Eldon)
La Boulangerie: 4526 Magazine St. A terrific French bakery, wonderful pastries and of course French King Cakes. Cash only.
Poppy's Grill: 717 St. Peters, open 24 hours, inexpensive, across from Pat O'Brians, basic burgers and grease. (Arthur N.)
Guy's Po Boys: 5259 Magazine 891 5025, Open 9:00am-4:00pm. Closed Sunday. Although it has a few tables inside, it's mostly a take out. I like the shrimp Po Boys, but tell them to go easy on the ketchup if you get it "dressed". (Stan)
Jazzy Po Boys: 1700 Port St.(I think they moved from this address) 504 943 0678, Sad to say, this place is now on the famous but overrated list, don't be fooled by the hype, crazy hours, really bad service and soggy bread. (Stan)
Fiorella's: 1136 Decatur St. 504 528 9566 Sun.-Wed. 7am to midnight, Thurs.-Sat. 7am-2am. Fiorella's is noted for casual dining in the Quarter by the famous French Market with its famous fried chicken fried fresh to order. Line forms outside the front door, (its a small place inside). No reservation, but they do accept credit cards. Bingo starts in back at 10 pm usually. Cheap enough. Special note, (under new management as of Fl 08 and my last trip here the service was just terrible, I keep giving this place another chance, but I may give up on it, visit at your own risk) (Stan, Jimmy)
Verti Marte: 1201 Royal Street, 525 4767, it only looks like a grungy little bread and eggs store, it actually has a little short order take out kitchen in the back. Daily specials and of course po-boys to die for, try one of Kate's favorites, the french fry and gravy po-boy for only $4.10. This place is a trip, but don't forget to tip the cook if you want a little something extra. Stan's new favorite is the "all that Jazz po boy" Open 24 hours "always open". (Kate and Eldon)
Johnny's Poor Boys: 511 St. Louis. Breakfast and Poor Boys, inexpensive $3.95-5.95 range, Stan says the shrimp Po Boy is spicy and awesome, Rosemary prefers the crawfish Po Boys. M-F 7am to 4:30 pm, Sat. & Sun. 9:00-4:00. No Credit Cards! (Arthur N. & Stan)
Taqueria Corona: 5923 Magazine & 857 Fulton St. Inexpensive Mexican, cash only, no charges. (Arthur)
Frankie and Johnnie's: Arabella and Tchoupitoulas. (Arabella is not noted on AAA maps; nearest street is Nashville) Solid, neighborhood, down home cooking. Stan always gets the crawfish pie as an appetizer. Red beans and rice with local sausage a cheap but great meal. Stan recently had a very disappointing meal here, and I fear the quality of the food has recently slipped. $7.00-$15.00 range, depending on drinks. 899-9146 (Pike & Stan)
Acme: French Quarter, on Ibienville just South of Bourbon St., West side of Street. Excellent oyster bar, boiled crawfish and fried food as well as char grilled oysters. One of the few places I'll eat in the quarter. Self service, so a good place to bring large groups if you are afraid of sorting out large tabs. The Po Boys and Gumbo are only so-so here, I stick to the raw bar and crawfish although I am a big fan of their char grilled oysters. Sit right at the bar if you want the whole experience, but be a sport and drop something into the tip jar. 522- 5973 (open as of 3/1/2006) (Pike & Stan)
Felix: French Quarter on Ibienville across the street from Acme, also a good oyster bar and has regular sit down service with a waitress, if you can't get into Acme, try here. Be wary of the other menu items, on our last visit, the turtle soup was terrible and the gumbo only so-so. (Stan)
Central Grocery: In the French Quarter, Decatur Street across from the French Market, on the North side of the street. Home of the Muffalato sandwich and Italian-Creole that's incredible, a must for lunch. One is too much for any mortal to eat alone, bring a friend. (Pike & Stan)
Cafe Du Monde: French Quarter, old French Market at Jackson Square. The place to have Cafe au lait and Beignet's (deep fried doughnuts, covered with sugar) after a long night on the town or to start a new one. A great place to kick back and watch the street scene go by. Also one of the few places to use the bathroom in the quarter without paying. A New Orleans institution. (Pike & Stan)
Deannie's: Interstate 10 West to West End Blvd. Exit, go North till the Blvd. dead ends in a traffic circle, go left around traffic circle and exit onto Hammond Hyw., go over a canal, take a second left onto Lake Ave., Deannie's will be on the left side of the street 1/2 block. Found in a section of the city referred to by the locals as "Bucktown, U.S.A." If you are real hungry for lots of fried seafood, this is the place. Very fresh, local stuff here. Always a wait on weekends. A $15.00 platter is plenty for two adults, the $25.00 platter enough for four. They recently opened another location in the French Quarter, which although not having the charm of the Bucktown place, has pretty much the same menu.(Pike & Stan)
Olivier's: 2519 Dreux, call 282 2314 for info. This is North up near the lake. Take Elysian Fields North to Fillmore. Turn right at Fillmore to Franklin. Turn right at Franklin onto Dreux, follow Dreux approximate. one block on the right. Excellent neighborhood place, great seafood, and daily hometown specials, great gumbo and soft shell crab. Open Wed.-Mon.
Mandina's: 3800 Canal Street. A well known neighborhood place where you stand at the bar while you wait for a table, but stay out of the way of the waiters. Generous portions in the $6.00-12.00 range. On my last visit, I had a really super dinner of crawfish etoufee and a great bowl of gumbo along with some of the best shrimp remoulade I have ever had. The loaf sandwiches are very large, the 1/2 is like most wholes and no mortal can eat a whole. Ed the waiter may seem surly, but he's a good guy, pay attention to his advice! Often crowded. North on Carrollton to Canal St., turn right on Canal, go about three blocks, it will be on the right side of the street. 482-9179 Mandina's WWW site (Pike & Stan)
Liuzza's: 1518 North Lopez, Lopez and Beinville (one block North of Canal), in the same area of Mandinas. A classic New Orleans family joint, Liuzza's typifies another of the city's unique gastronomic subcoultures-Cajun-Itailan. Fast becoming one of our favorite places, very informal, family place. Coldest beer in town, served in frozen mugs. Great neon sign out front. Call for info 482-9120. Liuzza''s WWW site ( Stan & Kevin)
Port of Call: 838 Esplanade, at the edge of the French Quarter, best burgers in New Orleans, served with baked potato, often crowded but worth it if you're into burgers. Call 523-0120 for info. (Kevin)
Louisiana Pizza Kitchen: Reputed to be the best pizza in New Orleans, for what that is worth, (A East Coast Pizza Snobs Attitude). European bistro atmosphere, Lamb to Alligator pizza, often long lines, one located in the Quarter near the French market but the location on 2808 Esplanade is rumored to be better. (Kevin)
Rocky and Carlo's Restaurant and Bar: 613 W. St. Bernard Highway. Located outside New Orleans in a neighborhood called St. Bernard Parish or (Da Parish for short), this place is a real experience, Deli style service of local and Italian cooking. Very inexpensive and you won't leave hungry. (Stan & Kevin)
Semollina: 3242 Magazine St. across from A&P, lots of inexpensive pasta dishes, major credit cards. (Arthur & Caroline)
Chez Helene: Famous black neighborhood restaurant. Inspiration for Franks PlaceT.V. show. I think that it's overpriced and almost on the overrated list, but we still had a great meal here. Oysters Rockefeller and cooked greens the highlights. In a real bad part of town so "take a cab, or park in front". 1540 North Robertson St., 945-0444. (Pike & Stan)
Jack Dempsey's: Another fried seafood restaurant in the great New Orleans tradition of down home cooking and enormous platters of eats. Not much in terms of atmosphere, unless you are into plywood siding, but lots of funk and neon. My last visit the food was only ok and many menu items where sold out, the portions are very large however. 738 Poland Ave.; call 943-9914 for information. Dinner Wed.-Sat. (Pike, Stan & Kevin)
Restaurant Mandich: You won't find the tourist crowd here. We've had good luck with the oysters Bordelaise and the trout. Don't attempt this one unless you're into day glow paint. 3200 St. Claude; 947 9553 (Pike)
Clover Grill: Excellent late night spot, open real late, diner atmosphere. Their motto"We love to fry and it shows", serves up the best french fry po boy. (Kate and Eldon)
Kim Son: 349 Whitney Ave., Gretna; 504 366 2489 You need to cross the Miss. River bridge to get here, but its worth the trip. Unusual Vietnamese food with a specialization in seafood. I will tell you the Salted Baked Crab is some of the best crab I have very had, anywhere. The scallops are terrific, and four people can eat four main dishes, with drinks for less than $70.00. Closed Sunday (Stan, Jimmy & Marie)
The Praline Connection: 542 Frenchman Street; 943 3934; (the other side of Esplanade, from the quarter) Soul food and proud of it. Sorry to say that the quality of the food has been sliding since Katrina. Avoid the BBQ oysters, simply terrible, but the ribs are good and the greens excellent. I was disapointed with the gumbo and the meatloaf had a very odd flavor. The pralines remain excellent, but stick with the original flavor. $6.00-15.00 (Pike, Stan, Kate)
Tony Angelo's: 6262 Fleur De Lis Drive; 488 0888. Call for reservations. (take I-10 West to West End Blvd. exit; left at first light; take a right on Fleur De Lis, restaurant is up several blocks on left, look for a house with lots of nice cars parked around it). A well-known Italian restaurant; don't bother with the menu just "order out of the kitchen" For $25.00 each Pike and Michelle sampled 10 courses over the evening. A very nice experience. (Kevin & Pike) (Hurricane note, they re-opened 5/9/2007, but an early report from Tom B says good but not great, it usually takes a place a few months to get back on its feet, but this is a good overall sign for Lakeview.)
Drago's: 3232 N. Arnoult Road @ 17th Street, Metairie 504 888 9254 Yes, I knows its all the way up in Merairie, but this is really a terrific seafood place. They say they invented the Char Grilled oyster here, I don't know about that, but they did make it famous. The fried foods are done just right and not too greasy and even the gumbo was good. Its a big place, but no reservations. They also have a place in the Hilton at #2 Poydras, but I have not been there. Rosemary says it's her new favorite place to eat. (Stan and Rosemary)
Mat and Naddies: 937 Leonidas (..where Freret meets the river..) 504 861 9600 One of our new favorite places to eat, Chief Steve always has something new and interesting. The char grilled oysters are great, but not the typical found at Acme or Drago's. I loved the grilled tuna, cooked just right and on a bed of polenta. Great service and atmosphere. (Stan, Denise)
R and O's: 210 Hammond Highway, Metairie 504 828 0140 Sun-Thurs 11am to 10 pm/Fri and Sat 11am-11pm. A great place for Po Boys and the usual Italian NOLA style and of course pizza (even Emeril loves the meatball pizza). Great soft shell crab, very informal and reasonably priced. (Eldon and Kate)
Venezia: 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 488-7991, Specializing in down to earth, home style Creole and Italian food. Packed with locals who turn out for pizza, fried calamari, veal Parmesan. Try the Vatican Eggplant - it's like a religious experience. Lunch and dinner weekdays; dinner only on weekends, major credit cards.
NOLA: On St. Louis across the street from Johnnies Po Boys, also
run by the same guy who owns Emerils, but less expensive and very
informal. Had some great veal here, reservations a must, but if you can't
get them, get there early and ask to sit at the Chefs Bar. Its
informative and entertaining. In the $25.00-50.00 each range (without drinks), but worth
it. (Stan)
Casamentos: 4330 Magazine, uptown 895 9761, Decked out in art
nouveau tiles that makes it look like a gigantic bathroom. A venue for
oysters and po boys. We recently had a super lunch here, but be warned, they have unusual hours
and close between lunch and dinner and keep in mind, cash only!.(Stan, Aimee & E. Turk)
EXPENSIVE EATS (good stuff, in many of the guide books, but too rich for Stan and Pike)
Pelican Club: Exchange Alley, 5 head chiefs, varied menu. Here is the WWW site- Pelican Club's WWW site
Commander's Palace: 1403 Washington Ave.; 899 8221 (Jacket required, tie preferred) Some of my local references say its past its prime and only tourists go here, but I think the food is still great, and it's a great experience. (Stan)
La Gaulois: Hotel Mariden, 614 Canal St.; 527 6712
Cafe Sbisa: 1011 Decanter St.; 561 8354 Here's the WWW site! Cafe Sbisa WWW site
Galatorie's: 209 Bourbon Street; 525 2021
Mr. B's Bistro: 201 Royal Street, 523 2078 For more info, here is their WWW site Mr. B's WWW site (closed until Spring 06)
G & E Courtyard Grill: 1115 Decatur St. by Storyville,528 9376. Good place to get the usual New Orleans best, but meal will be $40.00 with drinks per person. Some of the best coffee in New Orleans.
K-Paul: 416 Charters. You have seen him on TV, now a chance to get the real thing. Finish your meal, clean the plate, and get a gold star. In the Quarter, very famous, long lines, expensive, no reservations, but many say its worth the price. Generally, only tourist eat here now, and its almost on the overrated list. I like his sisters place in Lafayette, La., just as good, and the prices are more in line with the real world. (Prudhomme's Cajun Cafe, 4676 N.E. Evangeline Thruway, call 318 896 7964, open Mon.-Fri.) (Stan & Pike)
Clancy's: One of my new favorite laces to eat if you have some extra money to blow on a great meal. Terrific wine list, great service. 6100
Annunciation St. (504) 895 1111 (Jimmy and Marie)
FAMOUS BUT OVERRATED:
NEW PLACES TO CHECK OUT:
Here's a list of new places we have not yet checked out, but have been
told
are good neighborhood places, if you're in an adventurous mood, give them a
try and let me know how they were.
Mr. Ed's 1001 Live Oak, Metairie (note: they re-opened after Katrina, but recently had a fire and are closed)
Pascal's Manale 1838 Napolean Ave. Uptown 895 4877,
Creole-Italian cuisine, I am told to avoid the sauce dishes, however. I'm told they originated "Barbecue Shrimp".
Fury's 724 Martin Behrman Ave., Meterie. 834 5646
Neighborhood seafood cafe in the old style.
MUSIC CLUBS & BARS; A NIGHT CRAWLERS NIGHT OUT
"I'll Sleep When I'm Dead"
The Columns Hotel: 3811 St. Charles Ave. 899 9308 (St. Charles & Gen. Taylor) This massive old home was used as a location for the movie "Pretty Baby". Sit outside among the columns and enjoy a cocktail as the world rolls by. A great place to start your night out. Lately the hip, young, privileged types are hanging out here. Look up their WWW site: Columns Hotel WWW site (Pike, Stan)
The Mayfair Lounge: 1505 Amelia St. at Prytania. Ring the door bell and Miss. Gertie welcomes you to this cluttered, good little bar. Long time favorite of the well coiffed Tulane Student. (If Daddy only knew where his money was being spent) (Pike)
Markey's Bar: 604 Louisa Street (at Royal) 504 943 0785, This is a very serviceable, small Bywater bar and a real neighborhood place with lots of colorful character and a solid pool table and shuffle board game along with lots of HD TV sets hung off the walls. Cheap drink and the food surprisingly good, I like the shrimp po boys, but ask for the bread to get extra toasted. (Eldon and Kate)
Cooter Browns Tavern: 509 S. Carrollton Ave. 866 9104, A recent addition, during the day it's the blue collar crowd, at night the Tulane types arrive. Over 40 kinds of beer on draft and lots of stuff in bottles. Also a great oyster bar and plenty of pool tables, and to remind you you're in the future, free wireless internet. (Arthur O, Stan)
Saturn Bar: 3067 St. Claude Ave.; Well East of the Quarter. One of the Weirdest places I've ever been in, but one of our favorites. Neon chandeliers, a mummy hanging from the ceiling, in some ways looks like a bad acid trip. Stan's photo's adorn the walls with several thousand other artifacts. Local rummy's populate the place until 11:00 or so when the arty hipsters begin to stop by. Cheap drinks and great T shirts for sale. Nasty part of town, park near the door. 949-7532 (It is with great sadness that I report that on 12/22/05 O'Neill Broyard, the owner of the Saturn Bar, died of a heart attack, in New Orleans but his Nephew Eric and his family have reopened the bar, its all been cleaned up and is better than ever, even the bathrooms have been renovated!!) Live bands on weekends (Stan, Kevin & Pike)
Ernie K-Doe Mother-In-Law Lounge: 1500 N Claiborne Ave. (504) 947-1078 The Emperor of the World, Ernie K-Doe along with his lovely wife, Antoinette, also known as the Empress of the World are your hosts and guides into the world of "Ernie K-Doe: the living legend". Ernie K-Doe, a James Brown-esque New Orleans native, had the hit single in the 60's "Mother-In-Law." Ernie died July 2001, but Antoinette still carries the flame. Its more a shrine to Ernie than a bar. The bar now is filled with documentation of Ernie's passing which now include a life size representation of him. In addition to all this, they also have live entertainment and at times, soul food. Fast becoming a favorite "very weird bar" on our recommended "best under the influence" section. It's cool to take photos here, but be prepared to make a "donation" to Ernie's "foundation". This is not a particularly safe neighborhood, so be careful parking or take a cab. If the front door is locked, just knock, and Antoinette will let you in-if you don't look like a criminal. Update: Antonette died on Mardi Gras day last year (a fitting departure date for her) and her daughter and an old friend of Antonettes have reopened the bar. (Stan, Pike, Eric Liu)
Nick's Bar: 2400 Tulane, across from the Dixie Brewery. Beer here and hard drink concoctions, available by the gallon. Tulane college crowd hangout. The place to over indulge for cheap, but the trough at the base of the bar should have been a give away. Stan's favorite is the "Pink Lip's of Death". Best experienced under the influence. (Stan & Pike)
Snug Harbor: 626 Frenchman Street, East and a little North of the Quarter. Excellent jazz and Blues acts, $10.00 cover on weekends. Call 949 0696 or look up your WWW site! Snug Harbor WWW site
The Maple Leaf: 8316 Oak, West of Carrollton Ave. One of Pikes Favorite places for music, everyone dances, water cooler next to dance floor. Be sure to try the Abita beer, expect a $10.00-$5.00 cover. (Pike)
Tipitina's: 501 Napoleon, at Tchoupitoulas; A very famous local venue, big touring acts, home of the Neville Brothers, good any day of the week. This used to be a very nasty neighborhood, but there has been a lot of revitalization in the area recently and its better, but not perfect. Park across the street in the well lit Sav-A-Center or take a cab. Usually a $5.00-10.00 cover. You can find out who's playing, tickets etc at their WWW site! Tipitinas WWW site (Pike, Stan, Kevin, Jennifer)
The Club: Corner of Napoleon and Magazine, Recently recommended, down the street from Tip's, also known as Miss Mae's, is friendly and cheap- $1.00 drinks that can't be beat anywhere in New Orleans. This is your basic NOLA bar atmosphere, the people are nice inside and its a very diverse crowd, open 24 hours. (Jennifer F.)
Donna's Brass Band: 800 N. Rampart, corner St. Ann and Rampart. Donna Sims runs this home for traditional brass band, and jazz, in a small, smoky club at the edge of the quarter. Its is a great venue to hear live tradtitional New Orleans music. Also a great place for Barbeque or a great burger. In 1999 Rolling Stone Magazine voted it best NOLA club to hear live music. Here's their WWW site! Donna's Brass Band WWW site(Eric, Stan)
Michaul's: 701 Magazine, corner of Girod, both old and new schools can be heard here as well as Cajun food specials. Cajun & Zydeco; live music Mon.-Sat.. 522-5517 Check out their WWW site to see what's happening.! Michaul's WWW site (not recently reviewed)
Palm Jazz Court: 1204 Decatur, features many of the same acts as Preservation jazz hall, but with far less crowds and better creature comforts.
Fritzels: on Bourbon Street, down a ways from the action, a small place with live jazz on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Usually full of Europeans listening to very traditional NOLA Jazz. Very quite the rest of the week, one of the few bars I'll go to on Bourbon, Bar Maids don't take any crap, so mind your manners. (Stan)
Pat O'Brien's: 718 St. Peter Street (in the French Quarter) 524 4823, This is one of those places that is so famous and tourist filled, that it should be in the bar section for "famous but overrated". I will admit to having downed a few here, I prefer the patio for the fire in the fountain. The house drink made famous here is the Hurricane, no visit here is complete without one. During Jazz Fest and Mardi Gras long lines to get in (and its not worth the wait). (Stan)
Mid-City Lanes and Sports Palace: 4133 S. Carrollton Ave. (Carrollton & Tulane) Live music (R.N.R., Rockabilly, Blues) and bowling, Thursday-Sunday, 10 p.m.-3 a.m. Bar with full service kitchen. No cover charge, but $10.00 an hour to bowl on week ends after 8 p.m. (Pike)
Snake and Jake's Christmas Club Lounge: 7612 Oak Street, in a
residential neighborhood (but not such a great neighborhood), but you'll
know you're there when you see the
large Xmas wreath outside. One of the darkest bars I have ever been in, and
looks a lot like a double wide trailer. There is kind of an unwritten rule
that if you're naked you get to drink for free. I've read that this is Mick
Jaggers favorite bar. Someone told me that Esquire magazine recently voted it one of the top 20 "dive"
bars in the USA. Opens at 9:00pm and stays
open till to 7:00am in the morning. I can't believe they have a WWW site!
Snake & Jake's WWW site (Stan, Eric, Aimee)
F & M: 4841 Tchoupitoulas, 895 6784 Famous for their dancing on
the pool tables, F&M is a hopping place after about Midnight. Lots of Tulane and Loyola students. If
you're looking for a pick-up joint with a little spice they say this is your
place. In the grand tradition of laid back New Orleans dive bars. The Cheese fries are a great late night snack. Don't go too early!
NEW BARS AND MUSIC TO CHECK OUT
Muddy Waters: 8301 Oak Street 866 7174
Jimmy's: 8200 Willow Street 895 8477 ($5.00+ cover)
Howlin' Wolf: 828 S. Peter, 523 2551
The Saint: 961 St. Mary Street, lower garden district, 504 523 0050, In the tradition of smoky, dimly lit New Orleans bars. This is the place to end the evenings entertainment I'm told. Don't even open until 8 pm and stays open until "whenever"
PLACES TO STAY:
St. Charles Guest House: 1748 Prytania (nearest cross street is Jackson), (504) 523 6556 A new addition to the list, its basic and very reasonable, even during Mardi Gras. We stayed here recently and I think its my new top choice for a bargain place to stay. The rooms are funky, but clean, and all the windows in this old house are trapezoidal, and you need to be aware of the slope in the floor, but that all seems part of the charm. No phone or TV in the room (but they do have WiFi), but the bed is comfortable and its a well kept house with books everywhere. The staff will help you get settled and is a good resource if you need anything. Be warned, that since Katrina they do not accept credit cards, so its cash or personal checks. They even have a pool (unheated). When you call, ask for Dennis. Here's their WWW site (Stan, Pike)
St. Vincent's Guest House: 1507 Magazine St., (at Race) 504 302 9606. A great old building that dates to the civil war, was most recently a home of unwed mothers. This is a big old guest house best suited for the college student crowd. All kinds of inexpensive rooms, clean, but simple and a cut above a hostle. If its cold outside, be sure to request a space heater for your room. A great breakfast here however and they do take credit cards and have off street parking.
Columns Hotel: 3811 St. Charles, not a big place, but lots of Southern charm and interesting furnishings, off season, the rates are not too bad, the Pretty Baby Suite is only $230.00 a night and is a trip into the past. (See Bars section for more info) Call 504 899 9308 for reservations or look up their WWW site: Columns Hotel Current prices run from $128-$230 per night.(updated 8/08)
Hotel Villa Convento: 616 Ursulines St. in the Quarter, 504 522 1793. This funky old hotel, which used to be an apartment for Ursuline nuns, is not for everyone as its getting a little shopworn, but is popular with the young European set. A quiet neighborhood in the quarter near the Convent. Prices at 79.00-215.00 includes continental breakfast (which we passed on) they also have garaged, off street parking for $6.00 a day, although its 5 blocks away. check out their WWW site as the rate vary a great deal with the rooms. (updated 8/08)
The Hotel Royal : 1006 Rue Royal, 1-800-776-3901, Built in
1830 as a private
residence, this elegant inn is only two blocks from Jackson Square and has
bargain rates considering the location. Rates range from 95.00 for the
courtyard to $165.00-200.00 for junior suites to master suites at $225.00
if you want a room facing the street its $300-350.00 for a balcony on
Royal Street.
The Richelieu Hotel :, in the French Quarter, 1234 Chartres St. 504 524 8179 or toll free 800 535 9653, Our new favorite for a hotel if your looking for a nicer venure in the city. They like to say at the Richelieu that everyone who worked there is a concierge. Its in a quiet part of the French Quarter and has guarded off street parking.
(note on hotel prices, all prices are for non-Mardi Gras times, prices
increase dramatically during Carnival and most places book a year in
advance for Mardi Gras)
MISCELLANEOUS (Places, interesting stuff, more information)
"Well, we've eaten and its too early to start drinking, what do you want to do?"
Radio Station: WWOZ 90.7 FM, Old jazz and odd stuff, good in morning and late at night. A good source for finding out who is playing in town. A lot like KDHX in St. Louis in terms of crazy programming.
Steamboat Gothic Houses: St. Claude East across bridge to Egiana St., turn right go to the end, take a look. Best seen in daylight. (Pike & Stan)
K & B Plaza: St. Charles Ave. at Lee Circle; Sydney J. Bestoff the III (the B in K & B Pharmacies) collection. The sculpture plaza outside is free and open 24 hours. Inside on the 7 th floor is the indoor work and contemporary painting, everyone is friendly and doesn't seem to mind you wandering through. Closed during Mardi Gras. (Pike)
Fats Domino's House: See the home of a legend. Corner of Caffin and Marais. Look for the TV cameras and big Caddies and Buicks parked in front. (note, this is not an official tour, so don't ask to be let in) (flooded badly during Katrina and has been re-built, but not sure if Fat's is living there these days) (Stan & Pike)
A Gallery for Fine Photography: One of the best photo gallery's in the South, three floors of great contemporary photography. Always something interesting on the walls. 241 Chartres St. in the Quarter. Open Mon.-Sat. 10 am-6 pm and Sunday 11 am-5 pm. (Note, as of January 2003, they moved the gallery to Charters St.from their old digs on Royal to next door to Vicki Bissetti Gallery) Call 504 568 1313 for information (Stan)
Audubon Zoo: On every map and a good zoo if you are into that sort of thing. Entry fee for adults $7.00. Claim to fame is the white alligator. If you are a member of the St. Louis Zoo, show your membership card and get in free. (Pike)
New Orleans Art Museum: Small but good selection, often interesting visiting shows pass through. Stan even has work in the permanent collection. In the City Park at the junction of Esplanade and Carrollton Ave. Entry fee $6.00; open Lundi Gras, Closed Mon. (Stan & Pike)
Le Mieux Gallery: 332 Julia Street, 504 522 5988. I am represented by the gallery, they do have a portfolio of my work on hand, so ask to see it if your in the area. They mostly represent a range of media from Louisiana and Gulf coast artists. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. (Stan)
Confederate Memorial Museum: 929 Camp Street, Uniforms, weapons, and personal effects of your civil war favorites. For history buffs only. $3.00 admission (Pike & Stan)
National D Day museum (now called the WWI Museum) 945 Magazine Street, (entrance on Andrew Higgins Drive) open 7 days a week 9:00am-5:00pm. From an overview of World War II's economic and political routes to the build-up and military mobilization of Allied Forces in the 17 D-Days around the world, the 70,500-square-foot museum presents a collection of personal stories, preserves important materials for research and scholarship. If you're into WWII history, this is a very well designed museum and a must see, recently expanded. (Stan, Pike)
Meyer the Hatter: 120 St. Charles, since 1894 the South's largest and only complete hatter, that about says it all. Buying a hat here is a very civilized experience, one you won't forget. (Stan & Pike)
Historic New Orleans Collection: In the French Quarter, on 533 Royal, down the block from the Gallery of Fine Photography. If you're into local history, this is the place. Often there are some good photo shows here that connect with local events. Stan has work in the collection from his Mardi Gras series. Open Tues-Sat. 10 am to 4:30 pm (Stan)
Aquarium of the Americas: A must see if you like fish. On the Riverfront, you can also take a riverboat to the zoo in conjunction. $7.00 to get in. (Kevin)
Algiers Ferry: Great way to see the city. Take the passenger ferry from New Orleans to the Algiers side of the river. Ferry is at the end of Canal St., near the Aquarium. The Staten Island Ferry of New Orleans.
Julia Street Galleries: Julia Street from Commerce to Camp; Get with the latest art scene in New Orleans, beginning at the new and truly ugly Radisson, this revitalized warehouse area is now home to some very interesting galleries. A good visit on a rainy afternoon. (Pike & Stan)
Gambino's Bakery: 200 Broadway; 861 0011, one of the really great bakeries to be found. Even by my East Coast snob standards a great canoli can be gotten here. The place for a king cake. (Pike and Stan)
Marie Laveau's House of Voodoo: 739 Bourbon Street; 581 3751; Yeah, I know that it's a little like a junky tourist trap, but everyone still wants to know where it is. Just don't take it too seriously. As an aside, a recent poll showed that 15% of New Orleans residents believe in Voodoo. (Stan)
New Orleans Cemeteries: St. Louis #1 best, but can be very dangerous, don't go alone!! A good time is when "Haunted New Orleans" runs a tour group by, so there are lots of people around. Watch out for gangs of pre-teens checking out your hardware. St. Louis #2 is considered too dangerous to visit even in groups without an armed guard, I know one local photographer who only visits this one with an armed rent a cop!. I don't want to sound too paranoid, but this is a very bad part of town. I am also a big fan of St. Roch's, Lafayette #1 (where the vampire Lestat is buried), Metairie, Odd Fellows and Holt (the paupers cemetery), all of these are safe enough in even small groups. The Archdiocese is still a little sensitive about making commercial photos in their cemeteries after the Acid Trip scene in Easy Rider, (no fooling, they still mention it to me), so be sure to say that you are not a professional and there is no commercial value in your work and you are but a simple tourist. (Stan)
Here are a few addresses.
Cemetery tour: If prowling around the local cemeteries seems like too much, you can go on a tour, this is the only one I can recommend. Haunted History tour is well run and informative, but costs $20.00. If you go, ask for the tour run by Mr. Jones if you can. Call 504 861 2727 for info. They also run ghost, vampire, and voodoo tours, but I can only recommend the St. Louis cemetery tour. Go to their WWW site to get discount coupons.
French Quarter: Also known as Vieux Carre, it is the oldest part of the city, a wonderful mix of French and Spanish influences. Also a notorious tourist trap full of shops selling all manner of crap and misguided adventures. I can only recommend a few places to eat here, and less to purchase anything, outside a whopping hangover. Although Pike and I are getting a little tired of it all, it's still worth an afternoon walk. During Mardi Gras, however, this is the place where most of the truly crazy behavior happens, especially on Fat Tuesday. Watch yourself on the dark, un traveled streets at night around the fringes of the Quarter. Parking is difficult, especially during Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest . I have had best luck parking near the river to the East of the Quarter. Of note, the places to see in the Quarter are Jackson Square Park, the St. Louis Cathedral, U.S. Mint Building with the Jazz and Carnival Museum and for those interested in drug history, the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum. (Stan)
French Marketplace: They actually sell food here, but most people go for the junky souvenirs and knock off designer stuff, and they are usually cheaper here than elsewhere in the Quarter. One of the few public toilets in the city. Don't bother to buy hot sauce, Zaps Chips or local New Orleans coffee, go to the supermarket, its much, much cheaper, recently rennovated and its a nice place to visit, particularly if its raining and you need something to do.
Martin Wine Cellar: 3827 Baronne St. 899-7411 (between Gen. Taylor and Peniston, 2 blocks off Lakeside of St. Charles) This is the place to find a good bottle of Sauvignon Blanc on sale for $2.99 or $188.00 Bordeaux. A tremendous selection of wines, beers and liquors. They also have a good deli. (Pike & Kevin)
Day Tours:
Chief Menteur Highway: Take this road for an interesting afternoon drive toward the Gulf. This must be the place where old Peterbuilt trucks go to die. (Stan)
Fort Pike: 10 miles East of the City on the Chef Menteur Highway, early 19 th century fort with wonderful brickwork and catacombs, heavily damaged by Katrina. (Pike)
Avery Island: Home of the famous Tabasco hot sauce. About a 2 hour drive from New Orleans. Closed on Sunday. (Pike)
Lafayette: Although a ways away from New Orleans, you can do this in a day if you get an early start. Lots to see here in Cajun Country. For one of the best swamp tours, call Marcus de la Houssaye who is located outside Lafayette and do tours of Lake Martin. He specializes in photo and ecotours, call 337 298 2630 for information and reservations (which are recommended), They even have a WWW site: www.delahoussayes.com
River Plantation Tour: It is said that before the Civil War, half of Americas millionaires lived on plantations along the lower Mississippi River. The St. Francisville area, located below Natchez and above Baton Rouge, was one of the South's wealthiest areas, and many of their homes remain intact.
Here are a few:
Crime and Punishment:
Let me start by saying that I love New Orleans, its a wonderful place and I have met some really great people here. One of the negative aspects of the city is the high crime rate however. New Orleans is every bit as dangerous as Detroit (or more so) in terms of street crime, but without the Big City paranoia. There is a very laid back attitude toward it that often catches outsiders with their guard down. Car break-in's are very popular so leave nothing, not even small change in sight. Be very careful in the cemeteries in particular and in the areas surrounding the French Quarter and Armstrong Park. There is also a concealed gun law here and it seems like way too many people carry guns.It is also one of the most dangerous cities in the USA. In 2007, they set a record for a city of its size, 209 murders, which ranked NOLA most murders per capita in the USA. (the NOPD say not to worry, most of the victims were drug related, and 80% had previous felony convictions).In addition to the usual street crime watch out for the following scams. A person, often a teenager or pre teen will approach you and say "I'll bet you $20.00 I know where you got them shoes". You think how could this kid know where I bought these shoes, and he says "on your feet on Boubon Street". If you don't pay off there is an ugly scene. Another is someone who offers to take you "where the action is", this ends up being an alley where you get mugged. Pick pockets and bag snatching is also a popular enterprise. Watch you bag when in an outdoor cafe or bar. If you look a like a drunken victim, you'll end up being one. Be aware of your surroundings. My favorite admonition given by locals is: "Park in front, or take a cab"
Watch out for the flashing lights that mark the school zones in the morning and afternoon. It's really 20 mph here and the cops take it very seriously. The cops are usually not much help. In some cases, they are worse than the crooks. I always seem to get crossed up with the motorcycle cops, and they are not very user friendly. The former District Attorney here, Eddie Jordan, said the corruption runs deep and wide through the department- "pervasive, rampant, systemic", and having said that quote, he was run out of office in 2007-for good reason. There is some hope, a few years back a new police superintendent was hired and he has vowed to clean up the force. Never the less, when a cop tells you to move along, the only answer is "Yes Sir". The cops are generally overworked and underpaid and as a result you need to give them a certain degree of "respect" even if you think they don't deserve it. Unfortunately, Rodney King happens on a regular basis here.
