Stan's Guide To Mardi Gras


 

 

Welcome to Stan's Selection for Mardi Gras, this is my 19th edition of my guide to Mardi Gras, its free and really is based on years of photographing Mardi Gras and enjoying one of the more unique events on the world. The recommendations I will be making are by no means definitive and you may choose to attend different events as the mood suits you. Here is some background information dates.

Mardi gras Countdown

Mardi Gras can happen any Tuesday from February 3 through March 9. The date is actually set by the Catholic Church (based on the cycle of the moon) which sets the dates for Easter and Ash Wednesday. Mardi Gras is always 46 days before Easter, so the date always changes. This year, 2015 Fat Tuesday, the end of the Mardi Gras season, is February 17 a little early in the season of the potential dates for Mardi Gras. The majority of the parade season is generally 12 days before Ash Wednesday and in the four Parish areas around the city there will be something on the order of 70 parades. This supplement to Pikes Pick's is hoped to be a very rough guide to getting around during the carnival season and events that I am Aimee, my photo co-pilot attend.

There is no one parade or theme to Mardi Gras. Each parade is organized around a Krewe, a generic term for the organization that puts each parade together. These are usually private societies that charge dues and other fees to offset the cost of putting the parades and private balls and parties on. These parades take different routes and parades can often occur at the same times in different parts of the four parish area. As of this printing, I still didn't have some of the details for the 2015 parades, check with the Times-Pic. Another great resource is the Arthur Hardy Guide, a magazine you can buy just about everywhere that has a lot of information in it ($4.99) (ps, there is even a free iPhone app with all the parade info on it for all you tech savy youth). I will be in New Orleans from Thursday until Wednesday morning for the full treatment. If you cannot be there that long, I recommend Sunday to Tuesday night, it doesn't begin to get really interesting until Monday and Tuesday is in a class by itself. There will no doubt, be lots of traffic delays so plan ahead and allow more time to get to where you need to go. Be warned about "drunken frat boy night" (saturday night) on Bourbon street, they are not for the faithearted. The weather for a Mardi Gras can be quite the range, warm in the day, cool to cold at night (a damp cold). Be sure to bring rain gear and something for those cool nights standing around waiting for the parade to start. Here are some of my favorites. See you on the streets!


Saturday, January 31, Krewe du Vieux, start time 6:30 French Quarter I know its super early, but if your in New Orleans, this is a great little parade and one of the few that run thru the French Quarter. Not many floats, but lots of small groups of second liners and interesting costumes.

Thursday, FEB 12, Chaos, start time 6:30 pm If you get in early, this is a nice parade to begin the season with. This year they will run a 15 float parade, and it has a more 19th century look to it. I'll see it at it start at Perrier and Napoleon. With the new starting points for Muses, this parade will roll first, followed by Babylon, then Muses.

Thursday, FEB 12, Muses, start time 6:30 pm This is one of my favorite parades. If you can get in early, this one is terrific. It basiclly is a woman's organization, and all the throws have shoes as part of their symbols. Its one of the more unique and fun parades. It'll run the St. Charles route and begins at a new start point, Jefferson and Magazine, where I'll be seeing it. In 2002 Gambit magazine named it best Overall Parade and Best Night Parade. In 2004 they introduced a new fiberoptic icon float and a "Bathing Muses" float.

Friday, FEB 13, Hermes, 6:00 pm start time pm With the demise of Comus Parade, this is now the oldest parade, begun in 1937 it introduced the use of Neon lighting as a means of float illumination. Led by dukes on horseback and having 25 floats, this parade has a 19 th century look. We saw the Flambeaux (black men in white robes who carry oil filled lights that where originally used to illuminate parades) light off at last years parade start and that was worth the trip alone. Starts at Magazine and Napoleon and I would recommend you see the beginning as opposed to the end, where the parade terminates at Tchoupitoulas and Poydras. For photo events and parking, get here at least an hour before the parade begins. This is one of my favorite parade nights as D'Etat follows at 6:00 pm and then Morpheus at 7:45.

Saturday, FEB 14, Iris, start time 11:00am Founded in 1917 is the oldest parade for women. Prides itself in strictly following the tradition of wearing masks and white gloves during the parade. 33 floats, and they all throw a wide variety of frisbees, coasters, garters, pink doubloons, the usual beads, and as I found out last year - commemorative underwear. It begins on S. Clairborne East of Napoleon and anywhere along St. Charles is as good a place as any to see it. Ends at Convention Center Blvd. This years Theme is "TBA".

Saturday, FEB 14, Tucks, start time noon Known for its zany antics and often irreverent attitudes, this parade was started by two Tulane students and is named in part from the name of a local bar. Parade hit the big time in 1986 when its parade route stretched downtown. 25 floats and 600 male and female members. Look for the toilet seat float. This year the theme is "TBA" and a new 40 foot Queens Float. Begins at Perrier and Napoleon and ends at Canal and Decatur. Best/easiest view is along St. Charles or on Napoleon between Perrier and St. Charles.

Saturday, FEB 14, Endymion, start time 4:15 pm One of the "Super Clubs" with over 2,000 members, this is one you don't want to miss. Very large and running 25 ornate floats and seven tandem floats. This year, 2013 marks the introduction of a new super float "Pontchartrain Beach", 330 fee long and holding 230 riders! A very popular parade. In the past, I tried to see this on Canal and the crowd was crushing downtown. This year among other trinkets, they are planning to throw one million cups to the crowds. Get there early. The "neutral ground" will be filled with people camping out for days prior to the parades start. Its estimated that over 1,000,000 people will line the parade route so you need to be "in position" at LEAST two hours before the parade starts. Parking will be VERY difficult. This year, 2015 TBA will be Grand Marshall. The Theme this year is "TBA;. This year the parade, like last year, will to return to its Mid City route. It starts at City Park and Orleans and ends at the Superdome.

Sunday, FEB 15, Bacchus, start time 5:15 pm One of the more spectacular parades. Very large crowds, and parking is very difficult anywhere near the parade route. You really need to get where you want to be at least an hour and a half before. I always see this one at the start and end up at Frankie and Johnnie for dinner. Watch for the 110 foot Bacchagator float. Twenty-seven super floats and lots of goodies thrown to the crowd. The Parade will start on Napoleon and Tchoupitoulas and travel down St. Charles to Canal, back onto Tchoupitoulas to Julia and ends at the convention center. For 2015 the title is "TBA" and TBA is the King of Bacchus.

Monday FEB 16 Lundi Gras Day! Proteus, start time 5:15 pm  More tradition bound than most and the floats are based on the old wagons with solid wheels. This one has 35 Flambeaux's and 25 riders on horseback. I do not have a lot of the details, but the route is supposed to be the St. Charles route and it will run before Orpheus and start right at Napoleon and Magazine. This years Theme is "TBA".

Monday FEB 16 Orpheus, start time 6:00 pm A new parade, started by Harry Connick Jr.and friends in 1994, lots of musical celebs. show up for this one. 28 floats in the past, runs down St. Charles to Canal. This year the theme is "TBA" and TBA are the monarchs. This year it begins at Tchoupitoulas and Napoleon and ends at the Morial Convention center. I like to see this one at the start along Napoleon. Some of the floats are quite amazing-like the Leviathan over 120 feel long and carrying 100 riders! The Proteus parade preceeds this one by about an hour and runs the same route, so don't get confused.

Tuesday FEB 17, Zulu, start time approx. 8:00 am (usually late) One of the more unique parades. Begun by the Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club in 1916. This parade is made up of primarily black men and a honor guard called the Soulful Warriors who hand out the much desired Zulu Coconuts, to the very lucky few. Fifteen floats with lots of marching bands including the famous Olympia Brass Band. What a way to begin Fat Tuesday. Begins at Magnolia and Jackson, down St. Charles and Canal and ends at Armstrong Park. Take your pick as to where to be, a very popular parade. I like the beginning so I can see the Rex parade as well. Another tactic is to see this one at the end, along Rampart. For 2015 the theme is "TBA", and (update soon) is the celebrity monarch.

Tuesday, FEB 17, Rex, start time 10:00 am One of the best known and famous parades founded in 1872. The parade Captain leads the parade on a white stallion and is followed by 33 mounted lieutenants. Twenty-seven floats will be running this year and this is also one of the big, popular parades. Begins at Claiborne and Napoleon and runs down St. Charles to Canal and ends at Canal and St. Peters. This year, 2015, the theme is "TBA" If you are working the Zulu parade you will need to be at the beginning. See this one and head for the French Quarter. This year they are also supposed to be re-introducing the walking heads. Below is the map for the Zulu parade:




Other Parades and Marching clubs: (If you're really a parade animal, try to make these too)

Sunday FEB 15, Thoth, start time 11:30am. A rather large parade, starts at State and Tchoupitoulas and runs down St. Charles to Canal with a total of 140 unites and 42 floats. This years theme is "Thoth Salutes the Kings", I like to catch this one as they turn the corner from Magazine onto Napoleon.

Sunday FEB 15, Okeano, start time 11:00 am. Also runs down St. Charles to Canal (the same route as Thoth), usually follows right afterThoth, this years theme is "TBA", 20 floats.

Sunday FEB 15, Midcity, start time 11:45 am. One of the more unusal parades, all the floats are docorated with colored metal foil. Runs down the St. Charles route, 17 floats, this year it's called "TBA"

Tuesday FEB 17, Society of Saint Anne, start time approx 10 am Stated in 1969, this is a New Orleans Mardi Gras marching krewe that parades each Mardi Gras Day. Known for the very elaborate and beautiful costumes of its members, the core group gathers in the Bywater neighborhood (usually Bud Rips tavern) of New Orleans each Mardi Gras morning, with the Storyville Stompers brass band providing the music. As they pass through the Faubourg Marigny and French Quarter, additional costumed marchers join the parade at various coffee-shops and bars along the route. The marches continue to Canal Street to watch the Rex Parade, then return into the French Quarter. Don't be surprised to come across them on Royal St. in the Quarter.

Tuesday FEB 17, The Half-Fast Walking Club is a New Orleans Mardi Gras krewe led by Pete Fountain. Originally all on foot, in recent decades it has also featured one or two small floats. Fountain and other local jazz musicians play through much of the parade. The krewe's current route, basically unchanged since the mid-1970s, starts very early on Mardi Gras morning, at world famous Commander's Palace Restaurant on Washington Avenue in the Garden District. The krewe then proceeds downtown on St. Charles Avenue and after a brief interlude on Canal Street, enters the French Quarter at Bourbon Street winds around the Quarter and eventually ends up at the New Orleans Riverfront Hilton in the early afternoon. The "Half-Fast" is one of the best known marching Krewes that parades in New Orleans on Mardi Gras morning.

Crime and Punishment

"Send Lawyers, Guns and Money-The Shit Has Hit The Fan"

These are a few of the many, many parades happening. The key thing to remember is that when the parades are running, all traffic stops. The cops do not care about your problems, this road is closed. All parking along parade routes is prohibited 2 hours before and after parade time and they do tow cars along the parade route ($100.00 fine). If your car is towed, you can find it at 400 N. Claiborne, sorry no out of town checks accepted. Also watch for the posting of temporary signs along parade routes. Security is good during the day and most day parades are safe even downtown. Many parades run down St. Charles between Napoleon and Lee Circle, the center grassy island is one giant picnic area, more family oriented and not as aggressive crowds looking for "throws". Be very cautious of the parades downtown at night, and in particular be careful parking in out of the way places. It is usually safer to park up in the garden district or near Tulane and take the trolley downtown if you are going to the quarter or to see a parade along Canal. There is for all practical purposes, no parking around the quarter during Mardi Gras at night. In fact you need a pass even to drive into most of the Quarter. If your car is towed call 565 7450 to confirm. They take MasterCard, Visa, or Traveller Checks.

In particular be careful after the parade has passed and the cops have moved on. Watch out for groups of pre teen and teens roaming about looking for those who look like victims. If you are into partying in the quarter at night and do park a ways away, you might want to write the address down, you would not be the first person to forget where they put their car. The city can be very disorienting, particularly after a few hurricanes at Pat O'Brien's. Bourbon Street in particular, will be filled with drunken frat boys, party animals, and pick pockets and hustlers. Try not to carry a purse, and put your wallet in a front pocket. Carry only as much money as you can afford to loose. I wear my camera under my coat, it protects it from being lifed off my shoulder and from spilled booze from sloppy drunks. Avoid getting caught in the middle of the block on Bourbon Street, the crowd can be crushing, and if you're a person of small stature, you can get the worst of it. I like to work the intersections of the cross streets, it's easier to get out of there if there is trouble or the crowd suddenly starts moving.

The local New Orleans cops can also be a problem. The former U.S. Attorney for Louisiana Eddie Jordan was quoted as saying that corruption runs deep and wide in the department and was "pervasive, rampant and systemic" and even he was run out of office!. In recent years there has been a marked increase in civil rights complaints, 52 times that of New York City. If the cops tell you to move along, there is only one answer, "Yes Sir".

If you or your friends end up in the slammer, call Cental Lockup at 827 6777. The town will be filled with all kinds of law inforcement types, from State Police to corrections officers working to make some extra money. Watch out for the latter, they only get to actually arrest people during Mardi Gras in their job, so some of them are into it in a big way. I always seem to get crossed up with the Motorcycle cops, who in terms of the NOPD culture are generally not the smartest officers on the force. The police have a tactic of whenever there is trouble, to quickly move in and just collar everyone around the disturbance and let them sort it out at Central Lockup. If you do get arrested, it can take a couple of days for the system to spit you out again, so just avoid that and don't hassel or argue with the cops. In recent years, the big push has been to crack down on public urination. I know this sounds so totally gross and unthinkable, but in any given crowd of drunken types, and at night, and no place else to go, a lot of people do this, men and women! The cops take a very dim view of this and if caught, its a trip into the system. You're way better off going into any bar (and there is not shortage of them), buy a cheap draft beer, and use the toilet there.

Places to Stay

For more information call 1 (800) 695-2264 for Hotel information, for bed and breakfast information call 1 (800) 749-4640 and for general tourist information call (504) 566-5051. Prices for Mardi Gras are very high and usually there is a minimum number of nights required for a hotel stay. Many hotels also book a year in advance, even for hotels in the outlaying areas. Check Pike's Picks for our recommendations and in particular, the B and B's.

Public nudity

A lot of people think that Mardi Gras is all about the "flashing", that is, young women exposing their breasts to the adoring crowds. This is really not an old tradition, some say it only started in the early 70's.Traditonalist, like Arthur Hardy, are clearly horrified by the entire business. This happens for sure in the French Quarter, day and night, and is generally-very generally, tolerated by the NOPD. Body painting, somehow, seems to be ok. Uptown however, in the more family oriented venues, this behavior is very bad form and you'll end up in the slammer. In the Quarter, you'll also see a lot of drunken frat boys, dropping their pants, and the mostly straight NOPD don't see this as entertaining, and this can end up in jail as well. Women (or men) exposing their pubic regions is also frowned on. A few years back, the Chief of Police, actually published a statement saying that "public sex acts on the streets would no longer be tolerated by the NOPD", (like you would think oral sex is ok anywhere). Another consideration is that in 2002, Becky Lynn Gritzke, a nice sorority girl from Florida State University, had one too many Hurricanes at Pat's and flashed to some video camera and did such a great job and was apprently impressive enough that she ended up on a the cover of "Girls Gone Wild" video for that year. They even used her image on a billboard in Florence, Italy! She experienced performer's remorse, (once Daddy found out) and it went to trial, where she LOST! The judge ruled that exposing yourself on Bourbon Street does not offer any expectation of privacy. Be warned ladies.

Special Events and Happenings

49 th Annual Bourbon Street awards costume competition at Oz, a bar located at 800 Bourbon Street, 12:00 noon, Feb 17. TBA is the celebrity judge this year. Crowds spill out into the streets, leave the kids at home and check it out. Very, uh, colorful event.

Lundi Gras (Fat Monday) celebration is held on Mardi Gras eve at theS panish Plaze & Waldenberg Plaza adjacent to the Riverwalk, Poydras Street at the Mississippi River. The festivities begin in the morning and culminate with the king of the Carnaval's arrival at 6:00 pm. The event is free and includes traditional New Orleans music and fireworks. Here's the schedule of events:

Zulu Lundi Gras Festival 2015
The 20 th Annual Zulu Lundi Gras Festival will take place on Monday, February 11 in Woldenberg Park at the foot of Canal Street, along the Mississippi River in the French Quarter from 3 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. See the arrival of Rex! Fireworks, music, food.

Zulu's characters begin arriving at 10:30 A.M. and second line to the stage with a brass band to be introduced every 30 minutes until the arrival of the King and Queen at 6:00 P.M


Spanish Plaza

6:30 pm......................TBA
3:00 pm .....................TBA
4:25 pm......................TBA

6:00 pm Arrive of Rex, King of Carnival

Woldenberg Park

King Zulu stage:

TBA.................................10-12 noon
TBA..............12:15-1:15
TBA..............................1:30-2:30
TBA..2:45-3:45
Rebirth Brass Band..................................4:00-5:00

Mardi Gras Indians Krewes: Historically, membership in a Carnival Krewe was by invitation only. Few in the ghetto could ever participate in the typical Mardi Gras parade. Black neighborhoods bdeveloped their own style of celebrating Mardi Gras. They named their "Krewes" for imaginary Indian tribes, like Wild Tchoupitoulas, and Yellow Pocahontas. Allegiances were determined by the streets of their ward or gang, and Indian processions were often secretive, and violent. With police distracted by the general confusion, Mardi Gras was a day to settle scores. In modern times however, its a contest of who wears the most elaborate costume. These processions are very informal, with no schedule or pre-determined route. They are very difficult to photograph as you never seem to know when or where they will be. They can also be hard to photograph as they often parade in very crime ridden neighborhoods. Recently, I've personally had problems when I've found them parading, as they often come across as being exploited by white tourists and professionals from outside their community, I've had my camera blocked until I make a "donation" to their tribe or the individual. This can develop into a nasty situation, so be warned these guys can be very unpleasant to outsiders.

Things to avoid during Mardi Gras

Taxi cabs with no meter, Port-O-Lets at night, puddles in the French Quarter, Central Lockup, parking spaces on dark streets, paying to park in someone's yard that touches a city sidewalk, parking on the parade route or in the French Quarter, buying food from disreputable vendors-food poisoning), sunrise, credit cards, ATM machines, Pat O'Brien's at night, calling a cab company during a parade, paying for beads, standing behind horses, going to the bathroom in public, crossing the parade route on Canal Street, driving near a parade route, seeing your parents, meeting friends on Bourbon Street, people who recognize NOLA only from the movies, people who can't pronounce Schwegmann's or Tchoupitoulas



Next year 2016, Fat Tuesday is FEB 9 th! Mark your calendar now.


Special note: If your momma is a lawyer, this is NOT an offical site of Washington University or the Sam Fox School. All opinions, bad grammer, misspellings and just jugheaded information are that of an aging professor who has spent too much time doing research on the perfect NOLA bar crawl.


Created: 12/8/95, jlnovak
Modified: 10/2014, sjstrembicki